Time for Part 2 of Blanket Appeal
In Part 1, I removed an old Monogram from a very loose weave, loopy Blanket so that I could replace it with a new Monogram. Time to show you the Replacement Monogram!
Before & After:
I know the blues are different but trust me, the blankets are the same. The pictures were taken in different rooms with different cameras.
I used the same technique on this Blanket that I used in the Posts on Christmas Stockings and “Busy” Fabric. I created the Monogram first and then created an Outline of the Monogram that followed the shape of the Monogram. I made two copies of this Outline and Filled each with a large gap between the lines of stitching. I reversed the Angles of the two Outlines so that the stitches formed a CrossHatch pattern. I placed the Monogram on top of these two Outlines so that it would stitch last. I did not put a Satin Border around these two Outlines because I did not want to call attention to them on the finished Blanket. I wanted the Monogram to be the “Star of the Show” and the CrossHatch stitches to recede into the background and just do their job – hold down those blanket loops so my Monogram would not sink down into them or be “eaten” by them over time and washing.
I used Black Tearaway instead of White under the Blanket so any edges or fibers left behind after tearing would blend in better with the Blue Blanket. I used a Black Bobbin Thread so that it also would blend in visually with the Dark Blue of the Blanket when viewed from the back. I used a Magnetic Mighty Hoop so that the thickness of the Blanket was not an issue! Mighty Hoops work beautifully with Towels, Carhartt Jackets, Purses, Bags, Quilts, etc.
I used a light weight Water Soluble Topping (WST or WSS) to help hold back the loops during the embroidery process. I Hoop this topping along with the Backing and Blanket so that it is tight against the top of the blanket rather than just Floating or laying it on top. When finished, this topping tears easily away from the edge of the CrossHatch Fill Stitches.
The CrossHatch Fill Stitches do their job, they hold back the loops and almost disappear into the background of the blanket, allowing the Monogram to really be the Star of the Show.
I used this same technique on a brown Towel.
No matter what state I’m in lately, everybody wants to know how to do Patches with their embroidery machine. It was all the talk at the DAX Show in Kansas City and then 2 weeks later – ISS Show in Atlantic City – same thing – “How do I make Patches?”
Patches are actually one of the easiest things to create when you have the right machine! My Multi Needle Happy Embroidery Machine just moves from color to color, patch to patch, all by itself! Can you imagine if I had to re-hoop for every patch? I don’t even want to think about having to thread and unthread for every color change!
I simply hoop Ultra Solvy Disolvable Backing and embroider my patches. A Patch is just an Applique after all, the Satin Stitch not only finishes the Applique, it “finishes” the Patch as well. All the Patches just break free from the Ultra Solvy when I’m finished.
I don’t have to cut them or burn them free with a heat tool either! All the products I use for this process are available at www.TexmacDirect.com. I will be demonstrating this technique at the Everything Applique Conference in Atlanta next week – April 6-8. Come see us! Conference details and registration here: www.EverythingApplique.com
Can’t make it to Atlanta – I will be at the DAX Show in Tinley Park, IL, April 21-22 – same demonstration. DAX Show details and registration here: www.DAXShow.com
Check out our Happy Embroidery Machines at www.HappyEmb.com
Step 1: Hoop Ultra Solvy and embroider the Placement Stitch for the Patches
Step 2: Spray Pre-Cut Tackle Twill with Temporary Spray Adhesive – light spritz is all you need to keep the fabric from shifting – place inside the Placement Stitch and press lightly to adhere.
Step 3: Optional – for extra Bling – Lay a sheet of Opalescent Mylar over the Tackle Twill
Step 4: Optional – If you are using Mylar – Stitch an open weave, widely spaced Knock-down Stitch over the Mylar and Tackle Twill. This secures the Mylar but allows it to shine through and add sparkle to the Tackle Twill in the background. The Mylar appears pink here but it takes on the color of the fabric underneath or the thread being used.
Step 5: Stitch the Satin Stitch Border that finishes the edges of the Patches. In my example Patches shown at the top, I added a Long Running Stitch on top of the Satin Stitch in the center. This is a decorative element but also helps secure the Satin Stitch and makes it less likely to snag. You can use a contrasting color as I did for an additional design element or use the same color as the Satin Stitch and it will disappear and simply secure the edges.
Note: For the best results with Embroidered Patches when using a Background Fabric in place of Fill Stitches, be sure to use a sturdy structured fabric like the Tacke Twill. The Satin Stitches on the finished edge must be fully supported by the background fabric in order to maintain their shape after the Ultra Solvy is rinsed away. I used www.TEXMACDirect.com Tackle Twill for the white background on the Patches shown here. Tackle Twill comes in a variety of colors and is used to make embroidered badges, patches, labels, etc. It is tightly woven, poly-cotton backed with a non-woven material for additional stability. Be sure to cut the Twill so that it goes right to the edge of the Satin Stitch as you can see in the picture below. The needle should fall just barely outside the edge of the Twill on the outside stroke of the Satin Stitch.
Step 6: Stitch the center elements of the Patch – logo, text, decorative designs . . . I like to stitch these after the Satin Edges so that the edges are secured and the stitching in the center doesn’t pull the edges out of place and cause the edges not to align properly.
Step 7: Break the edges of the Patches free from the Ultra Solvy and apply the Patch to the garment by sewing or apply Thermo Fix to the back of the Patch to be ironed to the garment. These could also be Snap Tabs or Coasters. How about Christmas Ornaments or Door Hangers? The Sky’s the Limit here People!
With my Border Frame on my Happy HCD2, 15 Needle Machine, I can produce 20 Patches at a time. Looking for a great Embroidery Machine – visit us at www.HappyEmb.com
The products used are available for purchase at www.TexmacDirect.com
Last month I was consumed with embroidering on deep pile Christmas Stockings. As with any textured surface, Terrycloth, Velvet, Fleece, Fur, you name it, the plush “fur” of the Stocking presented some Digitizing and Embroidery challenges.
I wrote about those Challenges and my Solutions here:
A Right Way and a Wrong Way & Embossed Christmas Stocking
I started my New Year with a Sewing Room clean out and came across my stash of Valentine’s Day fabric. Guess what. Christmas is over. It is already past time to be thinking about the next Holiday!
It’s less than 6 weeks away. The stores are probably already half sold out of all their Valentine’s Day merchandise.
It’ll probably all be on Clearance by next week!
As I was admiring one of my favorite pieces of Valentine’s fabric, I realized that embroidering on it presents some real challenges in the Digitizing and the Embroidery itself.
As you can see, this is one “busy” print! And its not just the print, it has sparkle bits on it too. I really have to think about anything I embroider on this fabric because it can just get “eat up” by all those hearts and sparkly dots. The wrong embroidery design can simply disappear into that background.
As I was forming my plan of attack, I realized I had already been there, done that, got the T-shirt! The Challenge and the Solution for this background print is exactly the same as the Challenge and the Solution for those Christmas Stockings!
I made a series of videos as I was testing my options. 12 in all. Yes, 12, relax, they are just 12 short steps in the process instead of one looooong video.
Happy Valentine’s Day!
It’s Christmas Time!
Last year it was all about Aprons at my house:
This year? Christmas Stockings!
My BFF Andrea got an Apron last year that had my Cinnamon Roll Recipe embroidered upside down on the bottom. That way, when she made the rolls and needed the recipe, all she had to do was lift up the bottom of her apron and read it!
This year, I am embroidering some of the Hidden Zipper Christmas Stockings for her and her family.
Have you ever embroidered something with a plush nap like the Stockings or Velvet, maybe Terrycloth or Fleece and then had the nap come up and start eating your design? Especially if there were thin or small areas in the design. Maybe you just had to use a particular font but the nap of the fabric was just too deep!
See how the nap is starting to cover up the edges of the letters and the small details on the Snowman below? And this just came off the machine. Imagine how it will look next year when she pulls it out to use again!
Good thing I had a spare Stocking! I went back to the computer and added a Knock Down Stitch or Emboss Technique underneath the entire design. This open weave Fill Stitch stitches first and permanently holds back the nap of the Christmas Stocking. With this foundation in place, I can embroider even the smallest details on the plushest of Stocking, Velvet, Towel, Blanket, you name it!
Look what a difference it made!
And that’s not all! That Knock Down Stitch is what is used with the Mylar designs featured in this post: https://multineedleemb.com/2016/04/04/my-oh-mylar/
But wait, there’s more!
You can use this technique to create negative space as shown on the Stocking below! The nap standing up where the stitches “aren’t” spells out the words Ho! Ho! Ho!
And more! Add Mylar to the Negative Space Technique
Here’s a series of videos stitching out the Ho! Ho! Ho! Stocking.
Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah